TR: Skiing the Grand Teton in July
Words by: Jay Hause
Grand Teton – Ford Stetner 7/2/11
After an adrenaline packed ski descent of the Glacier Route on Middle Teton in firmish conditions on May 26th I thought my ski season was over. Ending an epic winter with a “Teton Classic” like the Glacier Route seemed like the appropriate way to finish off a memorable season. That being said, there was still one line in my head that if I got the opportunity to go for I knew I couldn’t turn down. Dave Yogg and I had discussed going for the Grand Teton via the Ford Stetner for a couple weeks. I was apprehensive due to my total lack of ice climbing experience but knew that if I got the invite there was no way I could turn it down. Sure enough when Friday rolled around I got a text from Dave, “GT this weekend, are you in?” I’m in.
We hit the trailhead on Saturday, July 2nd at 2 AM and moved quickly up to the meadows knowing that we were on the clock with 80 degree temperatures in the forecast. In the meadows we ran into another group of skiers and learned they were heading for the Ellingwood Couloir on Middle Teton. We wished them luck as we transitioned to ski boots, stashed sneakers and skins and continued to bootpack knowing it was a short trip across the meadows before the slope would steepen. After the meadows we banked right and headed for the Teepee Glacier noticing a lone headlamp ahead. We eventually caught up to the lone headlamp and met Mark Fellermann as he was caching some gear. After introductions we learned Mark had also skied the Glacier Route last weekend and that we had some common friends. He too was heading for the GT.
After a long slog up the Teepee we turned the corner and finally laid eyes on the objective, the Stetner Couloir, which was to serve as our stairway to the top of the Tetons. There was a group of 2 already on the route, they were clipped into a belay station and appeared to be discussing their next move. We solo’d past them anxious to see what was around the next corner. As Dave and I began to rope up for the first pitch of ice climbing the group of 2 rappelled out the bottom, apparently not liking the look of the Stetner.
Mark had planned on soloing the Stetner but after seeing the conditions decided a rope might be warranted. We had a rope, rock, and ice protection so we extended an invitation to Mark to rope up with us. He accepted. Mark proved to be quite an asset, leading several ice pitches and exuding positivity even when things got a little dicey on the descent.
Dave and Mark traded leads with their technical ice tools and I was content to follow with my general ice axe and whippet. This was my first exposure to ice climbing. If we got to a section I was unable to negotiate without technical tools Dave or Mark was going to lower their tools to me via the rope but I was able to manage. In fact my whippet proved surprisingly effective.
As we were cutting our teeth on the first pitch of ice climbing it wasn’t long before a new group was on our heels. With all the talk of the recent Grand Teton speed record (5 hours and 17 minutes by a trio from SLC) we weren’t surprised to see a some lycra clad racer types charging up the couloir behind us. Friend and co-worker Zahan Billimoria and partner Nate Brown (who went on to link up Grand, Middle, South summits in an astounding 10.5 hours) along with Brian Story (who missed breaking the speed record by minutes) and others slipped past us, rhythmically swinging their ice axes and kicking their crampons. They ascended like a row of spiders, unroped and moving extremely fast. It was humbling to witness. We continued roped up for 2 more pitches then solo’d the upper Chevy accessing the Ford.
Glad to be through the technical ice portion of the climb we began our ascent of the Ford as the speedsters descended around us, having recently tagged the summit. We did our best to stay out of their way knowing they were attempting speed records where minutes and even seconds count. It was great to be back in the sun and we started kicking steps up the Ford, all the time aware that the clock was ticking and we were behind schedule. Feeling back in my element kicking steps in snow we made respectable time up the Ford and before we knew it there was no more mountain to climb, we had reached the summit.
After 5 years of exploring the Tetons it was exhilarating to finally be standing on the highest peak in the range, my first Grand Teton summit.
High fives were exchanged but any notion of success was quickly tempered by the knowledge that it was 11:30 AM, past our projected summit time, and we were 7,000 vertical feet off the deck. We still had our work cut out for us.
We skied great corn off the summit, leap frogging each other down to the first rappel anchor where the Ford meets the Chevy.We rapped/down climbed the Chevy to the Stetner, mostly rapping. The Stetner was no longer in the shade and the July sun was heating things up. We knew we had to get out of there as fast as possible. The fastest way would have been to down climb, but wet, watery ice bulges made down climbing seem like a risky proposition. We all felt more comfortable tethered to the mountain, rappelling.
During the last few rap’s we had 2 close calls. The 1st came when Mark was rappelling the 3rd to last pitch. The rap anchor was a nut and something buried deep in the snow which I assumed was a snow picket. As Mark was about half way down the pitch I heard a disturbing “twing”-sound as the “picket” was yanked out of the melting snow. Turns out, the “picket” was a foot long piece of 2×4, not the best anchor. Luckily the nut held. Mark continued his rappel, presumably shaken up, but affable demeanor unchanged. Close call #2 came on the 2nd to last rappel. I was the last person down and after reaching a down climbable section I took myself off rappel, pulled the rope and continued down to Dave and Mark who had found an island of safety up against the wall of the lower Stetner.
As I climbed down to them I saw a look of alarm wash over Dave’s face and he yelled, “SOMETHING BIG IS COMING DOWN!” I did everything I could to get up against the wall of the couloir as a river of snow flowed past us, contained by a runnel. The wetslide persisted for a good 20-30 seconds before letting up. This occurred at roughly 2:30 PM. We knew were up there too late and this definitely reinforced that fact. This is one of the closest calls I’ve ever had in the mountains, and I have Dave to thank for my safety.
We finally made it out of the Stetner in one piece and turned the corner towards the Teepee. One last ski traverse above exposure had me a little nervous due to the recent snow movement but Dave, anxious to get back to town for a concert, lead the way. The snow down low was slushy but manageable. We gleefuly milked slush-corn turns down to the meadow and safety where another round of high fives was exchanged.
Back on the summer trail we ran into the group that had been heading for the Ellingwood. We were very sad to learn one member of their party had taken a bad fall and sustained a serious head injury. He had been evacuated by helicopter to a hospital in ID. It was a very sobering reminder how quickly things can go wrong in the mountains. My thoughts are with Ryan Redmond and hope he makes a complete recovery.
When we finally reached the parking lot I was delirious with adrenaline and exhaustion after what turned out to be a 14 hour day. Skiing the Grand Teton exceeded my lofty expectations. The word I keep coming back to is “epic”. Everything about the mission was epic; the skiing, the mountaineering, the summit, the physical and mental challenge. It was a day in the mountains I’ll never forget. Huge thanks to Dave and Mark, there’s no way I get up or down that route without them…it was great to finish off the season with a “Teton Classic”.
Stay tuned for part II. Jackson snowboarder Randy Shackett is up next to tell his story of shredding the Grand during this endless winter season!
Category: Mission
